Finland and Varanger 16-20 Mar 2015

A birthday present to myself.......5 days in Finland and Northern Norway with Finnature, guided by Antero Topp. We started in blue skies and snow at Kaamanen, north of Ivalo, after a flight via Helsinki. Rustic accommodation here, and a superb bird feeder, busy with astonishing numbers of Pine Grosbeaks and Arctic and Mealy Repolls. Also visiting were Siberian Jays and Siberian Tits, both species I really wanted to photograph....as well as Northern Bullfinches and 2 Red Squirrels! Our night here was the only clear night of the trip, and we had views of a weak Aurora borealis, with green and white streaking across the sky, and a reddish glow evidenced on photographs. We then headed into Norway and to Varanger at 70 deg N, the weather turned cloudy and milder for the rest of the week. A boat trip to Hornoya resulted in spectacular views of huge numbers of seabirds - principally Guillemots ( a high percentage of them bridled at this high latitude ) but also Brunnich's Guillemots and Razorbills, a few Puffins, and Black Guillemots in the harbour. The coastline from Vardo to Vadso holds large numbers of sought-after Arctic seaduck, and we found several compact flocks of Steller's Eiders, accompanied by widespread small flocks of confiding Purple Sandpipers. Vardo and other harbours held small numbers of Glaucous Gulls among the large numbers of Herring and Great Black-backed Gulls. The finale was a drive over the snowy mountains ( several of our long drives being brightened by the fantastic sight of hunting roadside Hawk Owls, stunning birds epitomising the wintry Sandinavian landscape ) to the fishing town of Batsfjord on the northern Varanger coast. This felt much more Arctic in character, from the time we arrived at the Polar Hotel, to the frequent driving snow that interrupted our itinerary. Nevertheless, the floating hide in the harbour, and the boat trip around the natural sheltered waters, gave stunning close up views of a trio of sought after species, particularly for the camera - Steller's Eider, King Eider and Long-tailed Duck - together with more adult and juvenile Glaucous Gulls, and a juvenile Iceland Gull. No view of the partial eclipse due to heavy cloud cover! All in all, a memorable trip, and the limited number of species made up for by their quality and the exceptional photographic opportunities. And I haven't mentioned the views of an immature, and subsequently of an adult, Gyr Falcon - and of no less then 3 White-tailed Eagles - and last but not least, Black-bellied Dipper and flyover Waxwings in Batsfjord town, where the harbour offers true Arctic birding. Photos JM to follow.